Winter Wonderland, Bonus Day 2 in Israel

Snow. In Jerusalem.

The Blizzard has not spread, but we are getting a taste of winter weather in the Holy Land.

As a group we went to one of the historic museums in Jerusalem that covered the history of the Jews in Israel from before recorded history, through exoduses, to the modern era.

After a brief lunch at McDonalds, with an interesting menu and the first issue with finding an English speaker in Israel.

Yes. No one at McDonalds in Jerusalem spoke English.

A few of us decided to brave the 1/2 inch of snow that paralyzed the city, shut down cab traffic, and emptied the streets, by riding the bus back to the Old City and going to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

Now, instead of throngs of people, it was dead empty. We were, at one point, the only three in the church outside of the monks/priests.

And instead of long lines to get in to see the tomb of Jesus, we could literally walk in and enjoy the art and architecture. the carvings, and spend time walking the church rather than feeling rushed to move from place to place, eyes glaring if you linger too long in one of the tight spaces or in front of a slightly hidden nook.

It was fabulous, it was exquisite, and it was humbling. To have come so far, to be delayed returning home by a blizzard, and then have a SECOND storm shut down a city to provide this opportunity was amazing.

The group finished with dinner that evening before finally having flights secured and we were on our way home.

Bonus Day 1 in Israel - Palestine

The group decided to head out to do their own thing in Jerusalem. Some of the group had, instead of Masada, headed back to Bethlehem and a tour of Christian sites in Palestine and highly recommended the tour guide. Four of us agreed and made a call to the Bethlehem Catholic University. A guide was arranged and we were met at the hotel by a van to transport us over the border and back to Bethlehem.

We started out by travelling to an alternative birthplace for Jesus, a small cave and alter and a view up the hill to Jerusalem.

Our guide pointed out a hotel under construction in the no mans land between Bethlehem and Jerusalem, the shining city on the hill. That's not a metaphor for this region.

This would be one of many quasi-legal or illegal developments that the Palestinians had issue with. His issue, personally, was that the hotel would undercut christian stays in Palestinian owned hotels in Bethlehem, further exacerbating the tensions between the Christians and the Jews, something no one wants.

Next we went to the recently located the elaborate palace fortress, and burial site, of King Herod.

While the excavation found a royal burial tomb, and DNA testing has shown that the people in the tomb were relatives of Herod's, it is believed that it might be a flagrant bait and switch and his real tomb is elsewhere to prevent body snatching and defiling.

Interestingly enough, the tomb faces directly toward Bethlehem. Archeologists are not sure if that was placement or intentional insult.

From the top it is possible to see up to Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and the surrounding towns and valleys, including settlements. The explanation from our guide was this:

In the time of the Ottoman Empire taxes were paid based on how much land you owned. So the locals got together and kept two "books." One they reported to the Ottomans claiming little land personally and disclaiming much of the land around towns or homes. The second was the accurate accounting for who owned what.

When the British took over from the Ottomans the locals attempted to approach the British with the accurate land owner records, but the British refused and said they would honor the Ottoman records. This meant that thousands of people last the rights to ancestral land over which there was no argument, creating these "dead zones" between towns and settlements.

Illegal settlement in Palestinian territory

Next we traveled through al-Eizariya (the place of the Tomb of Lazerous) without stopping. The city is, unfortunately, run down and dirty, with sidewalk salesmen hawking well-used appliances and a significant drug issue.

We continued on a highway that went around Jerusalem , constructed by the United States (and sporting American flags on each light pole) until we arrived at the parking lot for St. George Orthodox Ministry.

Clinging precariously to a cliff face, and across from a water supply channel constructed by, wait for it, King Herod (that still carries water to this day) we made the trek down and back up to the gate 30 minutes before close. Only to have a priest meet us at the gate to tell us we the monastery was closed for the observance of a celebration. Disappointed, we were about to turn back when one of our group asked to try and, in flawless Greek, began a conversation. The priest relented to both the request in his native tongue and by a member of the Greek Orthodox church and we were able to tour both chapels and the cave where Elijah was fed by ravens while in exile.

We then headed down to the Jordan River and the baptism site of Jesus by John. Now River is a grand stretch of the word. Most would probably call it a stream. And as the Nation of Jordan is on the opposite bank, armed soldiers are stationed at the site to ensure that no one is trying to sneak across the border. But it does not diminish the celebrations, party mood, or dancing and music on the staircase leading down to the bank and into the river.

We next headed to Jericho and the Christian quarter for lunch. We passed by a massive hotel/casino complex that was, at one time, very popular but had fallen into disfavor and was now abandoned.

Lunch was amazing, with a slight overlook of the city, in an outdoor garden restaurant. And then off to Hishams Palace for a tour and another thanks for America and our involvement in the archeology and preservation of historic sites in Palestine. It seems to be a friendly race between the United States and Korea as to who is investing more money in the Holy Land.

The site was interesting, empty to ourselves, and in a light rain quite pleasant.

Our final stop as night fell was at the Mount of Temptation, which is regarded to be the place where Satan tempted Christ with all kingdoms of the world. The tram to the top was put in by South Korea, so they win that round. And closed, so we were done for the evening. A quick trip back to Bethlehem, a dessert shop, and then a late night ride back to Jerusalem.

Blizzard Conditions - Israel Day 6

Blizzard.

We got warning that a blizzard was heading for the East Coast and they were threatening to shut flights down. We were all slightly excited at an extended vacation while nervous about getting home and spending more money for hotels and meals. For the families who were there on a budget this is a major consideration.

The Israeli Cats were not concerned about snow.

Putting that aside, we boarded the bus for Masada and headed out into the desert. We passed by the caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered

 (and clearly by the Dead Sea)

before arriving at the visitors center.

I was in middle school taking Latin when the mini-series on Masada was on television. So in a way, this was a personal flashback.



The action of the miniseries takes place on the far side away from the Dead Sea so it was not recognizable on our approach. But impressive it was. We went through the orientation, the minimal gift shop, then the cable car up the mountain. The vista's are amazing,

the issues with construction on top of a mountain from raw materials stunning,

and the scale of construction overwhelming.

and so intimately personal at the same time.

The only thing more impressive is that the Roman Army was able to take it in 2 years.

What's interesting about what makes it a World Heritage Site is not the mountain top palace itself, but that the Roman fortifications for the siege are fully intact, untouched, and still surround the mountain.

Following the tour and time we headed for lunch and then a swim in the Dead Sea. It's not just the buoyancy that is cool, but the feel of the minerals and salt in the water on the skin. Whether doing me good or poisoning me I don't know, but it still felt awesome!

Dinner was back at Midrachov, the shopping district and dinner while finding out that...the blizzard hit in New England and we could not get flights out the next day.

So we would have an extra day or two in Israel!

Jerusalem! Israel Day 5

Jerusalem.

This was it. The center of the three major western religions - Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Where the Temple of Solomon stood, where Jesus was crucified, where Muhammad ascended into Heaven. A city that has been continually occupied for 5,000 years in one way or another.

They haven't quite gotten the hang of cars yet...

We arrive at the old city and the soaring walls completed by Sultan Suleiman I in 1541. The same year Pizarro was assassinated and DeSoto reached the Mississippi. America was still in the control of the Tribes and European explorers were barely grazing the surface of the continent.

Inside the gate the streets are small. We enter into the Jewish quarter and first visit the traditional room of the last supper

and the tomb of King David.

 Next we walk the Cardo (A recently unearthed Roman Street because...Rome was everywhere...

to the Western Wall.

Feral cats are everywhere and friendly, almost desperate for a scratch and attention. I crouched to take a photo of the wall and temple mount and several jumped onto my knees and back.

We did not do the tunnel tour, although we wanted to, but instead headed past shops and food vendors, most just opening, to walk the Via Dolorosa. Even for someone who is not wrapped in faith, the emotion and significance are embedded in the street and stone.

And of course...Cats...

Then there's the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, consecrated in 335, standing on what is traditionally regarded as Golgotha and the burial tomb of Jesus. The current church was re-built by Crusaders in 1099 after it's destruction and renovations have continued, with each seemingly carving their names and crosses in the stone of the Church walls.

The line for the Aedicule was crazy and I did not bother to attempt it.

 Keeping in mind, nothing is labeled and you need to research before setting foot inside. While waiting for the line to go down I wandered the Church, and found a number of rooms and things, such as:

The Chapel of St. Joseph of Arimathea, still in disrepair due to conflicts of management, showing signs of a recent fire, and St. Joseph's tomb exposed. Yes I crawled in, but only realized what it was when inside. And only realized WHO it was after interrupting a priest texting on his IPhone to inquire.

The Chapel of the Finding of the Cross, the cistern where the True Cross was located when the Church was taken back (rumored) and it is lined now with plexiglass to protect the walls, through which pilgrims slide prayers to touch the wall.

The altar above the rock upon which Jesus was crucified has a gold tube through which pilgrims can slide their hands to touch the rock itself.

Everything is incredibly old and, for the most part, exposed and touchable. Which seems odd since that's guaranteed wear and tear.

While this was emotionally draining enough, we then boarded the bus for Bethlehem which lies just outside Jerusalem and is in Palestine. Because of the restriction, Guy could not accompany us and we were met by a Christian Palestinian guide for this part of our tour.

 It's almost shocking how close Bethlehem is to Jerusalem. It is literally right down the hill, maybe a 20 minute walk to the old city.

Am...Am I back in China???

There is an unbelievable distinction between Israel and Palestine. In the few minutes it takes to clear Jerusalem and drive down the hill to Bethlehem we see the massive wall and turrets that run along the border, cutting through neighborhoods. We had lunch at a reception hall that was, quite frankly, fantastic. We then boarded the bus again and drove the few minutes up the hill to the Church of the Nativity.

The entrance to the Church: a low door, forcing the person entering to either squat or enter on their knees. The church is not as extensive as the Holy Sepulcher, but it is no less imposing or confusing as two different sects maintain it causing issues if one pushes dust from a broom onto the half of the other.

Visitors must descend into the birthplace by stairs, cut into what was the back of the cave that tradition says is the birth place of Jesus.

The Roman Catholic church is next door to the Church itself and features, among other things, an awesome statue of St. George and the Dragon.

But wait...that's not all! After returning to Jerusalem we had dinner in town, then a light show at the Tower of David before returning to the hotel to drop in exhausted sleep.